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One learned that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rubble of fiery, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

14 ounces starchy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml mild oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a container. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.